Chisholm Trail – Quilt Block Tutorial

Chisholm Trail
8" finished
8 1/2" unfinished

I'll be sewing the rest of the blocks in this quilt with the seams open. It's an experiment to see if it really is easier to quilt after the top is put together. It takes more time to sew the block when the seams are pressed open. The two reasons for that are it takes a bit longer to press the seams open than it does to press them to one side, and it takes a bit longer to match the seams since there is no way to nest the seams.

Step 1: Cutting the fabric

Fabric A: background fabric

• A1 - cut one 5 1/2" square (for the flying geese units using Quilt in a Day
• A2 - cut three 3" squares (for half-square triangles)

Fabric B: red (main color)

• B1 - cut one 3" square (for half-square triangles)
• B2 - cut one 7" square

Fabric: grey polka dots (neutral or medium color)

• C1 - cut two 3" squares (for half-square triangles)
• C2 - cut two 2 1/2" squares

Someone told my daughter that if you have to trim your block units (half-square triangles, flying geese, etc) then you aren't a 'true quilter.' My thought is that each quilter should use whatever method helps them to achieve the results that they want.

When sewing half-square triangle units I always teach new quilters to cut the squares a little bit larger and trim the unit to the right size. The amount of fabric that is thrown away is negligible, and the blocks are so much easier to piece when the smaller units are the exact size needed!

Step 2: Drawing Diagonals and Sewing Half-square Triangle units, starting the Flying Geese units.

I'm using the Large Flying Geese Ruler by Quilt in a Day to make my Flying Geese units. If you have a different method you like, you'll have to adjust the cutting directions in Step 1.

I sew all my seams a scant 1/4". You should do a few samples to make sure that however you are sewing your seam will give you a 1/4" seam. If you need a refresher or reminder on how to check your seams, visit this post.
 

Draw diagonal lines from corner to corner on all the A pieces.
Place one A2 and the B1 piece right sides together and pin.
Place an A2 and both C1 pieces right sides together and pin.
Carefully center the A1 square right sides together with the B2 square and pin in four places.

Sew a scant 1/4" seam on both sides of each diagonal line.

Cut along the diagonal lines.

Press all seams open. Trim the half-square triangle units to 2 1/2". They are done.

I like to start laying out my block as soon as some of the pieces are done. It helps keep me organized and know what step I'm on.

 Step 3: Finishing the Flying Geese Units

Do not match the center seams of the A1-B2 pieces! Match the four corners! Place a white triangle right sides together on the red triangles, as in the photo.

Draw a diagonal line that goes from the corner of A1 through to the opposite corner of B2.
Notice that all four corners of the A1-B2 pieces match.
Sew a scant 1/4" seam on both sides of the drawn diagonal line.

Cut along the drawn diagonal line. Press seams open.
Your pieces should look like the ones in the photo.

Use your Flying Geese ruler. Line up the red triangle of the ruler with the seams on A1.
Make sure the point of the ruler is over the sewn point on the block.
If you click on the picture it will enlarge and you can see it better.
Trim all three sides.
Flip the piece and center the ruler matching the seams. Trim the last part of the Flying Geese unit.

 The directions that come with the ruler are excellent. If you have the ruler, use the directions, too! You can also click on this link for a more detailed tutorial on using the ruler.

The photo shows all the trimmings

Step 4: Sewing the Block Together
 

Finish laying your block out on a portable surface. I use my design and pressing board.

Sew the center square first. It's wrong side up in the photo above.

It's worth the extra effort to spend the time to match your points. They won't always be perfect, but the more you practice getting them to match, the better and faster you will be at getting good corners.
The center should measure 4 1/2" square.

Lay all the block units out. I prefer to sew in columns, but some people like to sew the rows first and the columns next.

Make sure you pin the columns together where the seams match. When the seams are pressed open there is no way to 'nest' them. I used pins every place the seams needed to match.

8 1/2" Chisholm Trail block ready to be sewn into a quilt.

Click on the link for a little bit of history about the Chisholm Trail.

Dawn's colorway (thanks for sharing!)

Jaime's colorway. Thanks for sharing!

Feel free to send me photos of your block. We all love to see what our neighbors are working on. Your color choices are inspiration for all of us!

North Star - Quilt Block Tutorial

North Star
8" finished

Step 1: Cutting the Fabric

Fabric A: background fabric
Use a fabric scrap that is about 6" x 16"

• A1 - cut four 2 1/2" squares
• A2 - cut four 2 1/2" x 4 1/2" rectangles
  

Fabric B: center square

• cut one 4 1/2" square

Fabric C: star points
use a scrap that is about 8" x 11"

• cut eight 2 1/2" squares

Step 2: Sewing the Flying Geese Units
Remember that pinning is important to keep the pieces from shifting. We'll be making these Flying Geese using the Sew, Trim, and Flip method.
 

Draw a diagonal line on the back of each Fabric C square. Pin one C to the end of each A1 rectangle with the diagonal line placed as shown in the photo above.

Sew just slightly (about 1 thread's width) on the outside of the line. Trim off the corner triangle. Press C (the triangle piece) open.

Pin the other four C squares on the other side of the A2 rectangles. Make sure your diagonal line is going from the top center to the bottom left of A2.

Sew slightly (about one thread's width) on the outside of the diagonal line.
Trim off the triangle, press open.
Trim to 4 1/2" x 2 1/2" if your Flying Geese units aren't that size.
You now have four Flying Geese units.

 Step 3: Sewing the Block Together

Lay your block out according to the picture above. Use a cutting mat, a Design and Pressing Board, or anything that you can use to bring your block to your sewing machine.

I sewed the columns first. Lay the outside column (Flying Geese unit and A1),
pin blocks in place, sew.
Match the top cut edges and the bottom cut edges.
If the pieces aren't exactly the same height, sew with the bigger piece towards the feed dogs and the shorter piece on top near the presser foot.
The feed dogs will ease the larger piece to fit the smaller piece.
Chain sew the pieces together and do not trim the threads between the pieces. This will keep the pieces in the right order as you sew the next few steps.

Press the seams towards the least bulk.
The top and bottom sections will be pressed towards A1,
the center section will be pressed towards B.

Repeat for the other column of pieces.

Press as before, towards the least bulk.

I've rotated the block in this photo because it's easier to pin and sew in this direction. Place the sewn columns right side together, matching and nesting the seams.
Pin at the seams, and the top and bottom of each row.

Sew down each side removing pins as you get to them.

As you sew down the side seams try to sew the new seam so that it crosses exactly over the crossed seam on the Flying Geese units. See the red arrows. If you sew your seam so that it crosses exactly over the middle, your points will turn out beautifully!

When you press it won't be possible to press towards the least bulk because you'll end up with too many layers at the corners of the center square (B). Press as shown.

Press open the corners of the center square (B) so that it looks like a mini Four Patch. You may have to remove a few threads to get it to lay flat. This will help reduce the bulk at the corners.

Press from the right side and trim to 8 1/2" square. If you sewed your diagonal seams correctly you should end up with beautiful points and 1/2" between the outside points and the edge of your block.

Update: Reader blocks! Thanks for sharing!

Dawn's colorway

Jaime's colorway. Notice how she fussy cut the center block. I love it!

Windblown Square - Quilt Block Tutorial - Version 2

Windblown Square
8" finished

This is an intermediate block called Windblown Square. I've done a tutorial on it in a different post that you can find here. This tutorial is for an 8" finished block, the earlier one is for a 12" finished block.

This tutorial has a different method of making the block. Instead of making a parallelogram unit and a flying geese unit, I used half-square triangles and flying geese. This block is a little trickier to sew all the final units together. This isn't my favorite method, I prefer the first method I posted because there are fewer seams in the final block, which means fewer chances to cut off points.

However, this is a good post to review two different ways of making flying geese units. It's a long post with lots of pictures!

Step 1: Cutting the Fabric

Cut from background fabric
two 3" squares
two 2 1/2" x 4 1/2" rectangles

Cut from fabric 1 (black)
one 5 1/2" square

Cut from fabric 2 (red)
two 3" squares
four 2 1/2"squares

Step 2: Getting the Pieces Ready to Sew

Draw a diagonal line across the black square.
Draw a diagonal line across both of the 3" white squares.
Draw a diagonal line across each of the 2 1/2" red squares (there are four)
Draw a diagonal line across both of the 3" white squares.

Place the 3" white squares, right sides together, on the 3" red squares. We'll be making four half-square triangles just like we did in the last post: Starting Point

Center the 5 1/2" black square on top of the 7" white square. We'll be making these into four Flying Geese units using Flying Geese Method 2.

Place ONE of the 2 1/2" red squares on each of the white rectangles. We'll be making these into two Flying Geese units.

Place everything on your design and pressing board. The tutorial to make one is here.

Now you're ready to sew! If you already know how to make Flying Geese Units and half-square triangle units, you can scroll down to Step 6 and put the block together without going through a million step by step photos.

Step 3: Two Flying Geese Units Using Sew, Trim, and Flip Method

My needle is set so that it I can sew just barely on the right side of the drawn line.

Sew just to the outside of the drawn line. Do this on both rectangles.

Trim 1/2" away from the seam.

This is what it looks like after you trim off the corners.

Press the triangles to the outside.

Pin the other red 2 1/2" squares to the other end of the rectangle and repeat sewing just to the outside of the line. Pinning keeps the square from shifting. If you don't want to pin, that's okay. Just make sure that your square doesn't shift while you sew.

You can see the stitching on the outside of the line.

Trim the corner as you did for the other side.

This is what your pieces should look like after you've trimmed the corners off.

Press the other corner out and your Flying Geese units should look like this.

Trim the blocks to 2 1/2" x 4 1/2".

Step 4: Four Flying Geese Units using the Quilt in a Day Flying Geese Ruler

This is my favorite way of making Flying Geese Units. It's very precise and I get accurate units and sharp points every time! I'm using the Large Flying Geese Ruler 4 x 8 by Quilt in a Day.

Pin the pieces together so they don't shift while you are sewing. I always pin these pieces together because they are large and shift while I'm sewing.

Sew a scant 1/4" on either side of the drawn line. You only sew the inside square, you don't sew on the larger square.

Cut on the drawn line.

I know it looks odd and it's a little tricky to do, but press towards the larger square.

Draw another diagonal line across one of the pieces.

Place squares right sides together, the square with the diagonal line on top, pin in place.

Pin! You really need to pin this so the pieces don't shift while you are sewing. The seams are not nested and this causes some shifting if you aren't careful.

Sew a scant 1/4" seam on both sides of the diagonal line.

Cut along the diagonal line.

Make a clip from the cut edge to the seam without going through the seam.

See the clip in the middle of the seam?

Press the dark towards the light so that black triangles are pressed out. The block on the left shows what it looks on the right side after it's been pressed.

Use the end of your Flying Geese Ruler that says 2" x 4" Finished Geese. Place it just as you see in the photo with the dashed line at the top of a triangle and the red triangle on the ruler matching up with your sewn triangle.

Trim along three sides.

Flip the unit over and match the red line to the bottom of your Flying Geese unit, and both sides of your unit to the edges of the ruler.

Trim along the top edge of the ruler.

Trim all the Flying Geese units the same way. You should have four Flying Geese Units from two squares of fabric.

Step 5: Sewing Four Half-Square Triangles (This is easy!!)

Instead of cutting these squares 2 7/8" we cut them 3". We get a more accurate unit because we can trim them down when we're done sewing the unit. See the pins? Using pins = more accurate units!

Sew a scant 1/4" seam on both sides of the diagonal line.

Cut along the diagonal line.

Press towards the dark side of the unit. If you place the dark side on top while you are ironing, then set the seam, you can flip the dark side up and press. It makes it easy to get the seam towards the dark side.

I've used both Marsha McCloskey's 6" Precision Trimmer and the Quilt in a Day 6 1/2" Square Up Ruler. I like them both.

This is the Precision Trimmer. Line up the 2 1/2" horizontal line with the seam on your half-square triangle unit. Trim along both sides of the top.

After the first trim, it will look like this.

Flip the block 180˚ and line the 2 1/2" line on the ruler with the seam line. Trim off the two edges.

This is what it looks like after the unit is completely trimmed.

Step 6: Putting the Block Together

Set up your units on your board so you can see how the block is going together. This isn't a straight forward block that you can put pieces together.

If you are an experienced quilter you can see by the set up in the photo above how to sew the block together. If you aren't experienced, keep ready and looking closely at the photos.

Place the half-square triangle units right sides together on the neighboring Flying Geese units. Pin in place.

Sew a scant 1/4" seam where you've pinned. Press open or towards the half-square triangle.

Place the pieces you just sewed right sides together and pin in place.

Match the point of your Flying Geese unit to the seam between the half-square triangle and the bottom Flying Geese unit. It's important to place a pin through the point and into the seam. This will help match the point to the seam.

Sew a scant 1/4" seam. Do this on both units.

Press open and place it back on the board. Sew the other Flying Geese unit as shown in the photo.

Press seams open. Almost done!

Pin the two halves of the block together, matching the seams.

 Sew a scant 1/4" seam.

Press open and trim to 8 1/2"

You're all done!

If you have any questions please leave them in the comments below and I'll be sure to answer them.

Update: Reader blocks! Thanks for sending your photos to share!

Jaime's colorway